Glossary of Terms : Embroidery

  • Applique
    • The use of fabrics sewn onto one another for decoration that adds dimension and texture. Reduces the amount of embroidery stitches needed to fill the design area.
  • Backing
    • A woven or non-woven support material added to the back of the fabric being embroidered. Backing can be hooped with the item or placed between the machine throat plate and the hooped item. It comes in various weights in three types - tear-away, cut-away, and wash-away.
  • Bean Stitch
    • Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining because it eliminates the need for repeatedly digitizing a single-ply running stitch outline.
  • Bobbin
    • A spool that is inside of the hook. The bobbin thread forms the stitches on the underside of the garment. The bobbin on an embroidery machine works the same way as on a home sewing machine.
  • Column Stitch
    • A series of zig-zag stitches placed closely together to form a column. Also know as a steil stitch or satin stitch.
  • Complex Fills
    • Refers to a digitizing capability that allows areas to be designated as voids at the same time the design's edges are defined. The design can thus be digitized as one fill area, instead of being broken down into multiple sections.
  • Digitizing
    • A modern term for punching, it is a method of programming a design. Artwork is converted into a series of commands to be read by an embroidery machine's computer.
  • Finishing
    • Processes performed after embroidery is complete. Includes trimming loose threads, cutting or tearing away excess backing, removing topping, cleaning any stains, pressing or steaming to remove wrinkles or hoop marks and packaging for sale or shipment.
  • Hook
    • Holds the bobbin case in the machine and plays a vital role in stitch formation. Making two complete rotations for each stitch, its point meets a loop of top thread at a precisely timed moment and distance to form a stitch.
  • Hoop (noun)
    • A device made from wood, plastic, or steel with which fabric is held in place for machine embroidering. A frame that attaches to the embroidery unit to hold the fabric taut while stitching.
  • Hoop (verb)
    • The process of placing the fabric and/or stabilizer into the embroidery hoop.
  • Lock Stitch
    • Commonly referred to as a lock-down or tack-down stitch, a lock stitch is formed by three or four consecutive stitches of at least a 10-point movement. It should be used at the end of all columns, fills, and at the end of any element in your design where jump stitches will follow, such as color changes or the end of a design.
  • Puckering
    • Result of the fabric being gathered by the stitches. Many possible causes include incorrect density, loose hooping, lack of backing, incorrect tension, or dull needle.
  • Registration
    • This refers to the ability to line up details and parts of designs with each other.
  • Running Stitch
    • One stitch which goes Point A to Point B. A running stitch is often used for fine details, outlining, and underlay. Consists of one stitch between two points. Used for outlining and fine detail. Also known as a walk stitch.
  • Sans-serif type
    • A type style without cross strokes at the end of the main strokes. Example: Arial is a sans-serif font.
  • Serif type
    • Any typeface with letters having cross strokes at the end of the main strokes. Example: Times New Roman is a serif font.
  • Satin stitch
    • A series of zig-zag stitches which are formed closely together. A satin stitch is normally anywhere from 2 mm to 12 mm.
  • Scaling
    • Ability within one design program to enlarge or reduce a design. In expanded format, most scaling is limited to 10 percent to 20 percent because the stitch count remains constant despite final design size.
  • Tackle Twill
    • Letters or numbers cut from polyester or rayon twill fabric that are commonly used for athletic teams and organizations.
  • Tension
    • Tightness of thread when forming stitches. Top thread tension, as well as bobbin thread tension, needs to be set. Proper thread tension is achieved when about one third of the thread showing on the underside of the fabric on a column stitch is bobbin thread.
  • Topping
    • Material hooped or placed on top of fabrics that have definable nap or surface texture, such as corduroy and terry cloth, prior to embroidery.
  • Trimming
    • The action of cutting loose thread, removing backing, etc., from the final embroidered product.
  • Underlay
    • Used under the regular stitching in a design. The stitches are placed to provide stability to the fabric and to create different effects. Underlay is normally a series of running stitches or a very light density fill often placed in the opposite direction that the stitching will go.